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Types of Waves

There are several types of waves. Surfers talk about them. Kiteboarders talk about them. Now you can talk about them.

Beach break
This is the best types of break for learning to surf. Waves break over a sandy bottom. The sand can move and shift throughout the year. At some point, rocks can even come in and go again.

 

Reef break
The wave is formed over a reef or rock structure under water. These are the most consistent breaks and. Most consistent take-off places for surfers. 
These can be the most competitive places to surf as well. When paddling out in a reef, paddle out diagonally and scan the top of the water for boils. This is where the rocks are. Be careful when surfing over the shallow rocks. Try to fall shallow. 

 

Point break
Long, unvarying waves that break along a point that extends from the coastline.

 

 

Ground swells
Waves formed over vast distances, well-formed and powerful.

River mouth breaks
Wave forms on the sediments deposited at the river mouth. These are similar to beach breaks, but more susceptible to change. Cardiff reef has a great river mouth.

 

 

 

Wind swells
Waves formed by wind. They tend to be sloppy and unorganized. (Wind slop)

 

 

Check the weather forcast, tide times, and wind speed before you go out in the water. Always take time to study the waves and paddle or swim out inbetween sets.